FIRE DOOR PRODUCTS

Fire Door Closers & Hardware

Self-closers, hinges, locks and ironmongery: the fire-rated fire door closers and hardware that make a door actually work. Supplied, fitted and set up correctly.

WHAT IT IS

Fire door closers and hardware are part of the doorset

A certified doorset is only certified with the right hardware on it: the self-closer, the hinges, the lock or latch, the handles, and the intumescent protection behind them. These are not generic fittings. Fire door hardware is fire-tested and CE/UKCA-marked, and the certification assumes that specification. Change it for something unrated, and you can undermine the whole assembly.

WHAT IT DOES

It closes the door — every time

The most important piece is the self-closer. A fire door that is propped or fails to close is not doing its job at all. A correctly specified and adjusted closer brings the door fully into the frame and lets it latch, every time, without being too heavy for people to use. Fire-rated hinges (usually three, CE-marked) carry the leaf without distorting in heat. Meanwhile, intumescent pads behind locks and hinges expand to seal those openings in a fire. For the standard closers are tested to, see Approved Document B.

WHY IT MATTERS

Fire door closers: the number-one inspection failure

On inspections up and down the coast, closer and hardware faults are among the most common findings. They are also the most consequential, because a door that will not close leaves the compartment open. So keeping the hardware right is a core part of the responsible person’s duty to keep fire doors in effective working order.

WHAT WE FIND ON INSPECTION

Where hardware lets a door down

No closer, or a defeated one. Fire door closers removed, disconnected or held open, so the door never actually closes.

Wrong closing force. Closers set too weak to latch the door, or so strong they are a struggle to use. As a result, residents prop them.

Non-fire-rated or worn hinges. Standard hinges instead of fire-rated ones, too few hinges, or hinges worn so the door drops.
Missing intumescent protection. No intumescent pads behind locks, latches or hinges, leaving gaps that let fire through.
HOW WE HELP

Supplied, fitted and adjusted

We supply and fit compliant fire-rated closers, hinges, locks and ironmongery, set closing forces correctly, and add the intumescent protection the doorset needs. That can be part of an installation, or remedial works following an inspection. For example, at Homelake House in Poole we fitted cam-action easy-open closers and Certifire Grade 13 hinges, so residents in a retirement setting can use the doors comfortably while each one still closes fully.

Certifire-approved Grade 13 ball-bearing hinge on an oak fire door at Homelake House, Poole, with a black intumescent liner behind the frame leaf.
Certifire Grade 13 hinge with intumescent liner, Homelake House
Oak cross-corridor fire door at Homelake House, Poole, with a Part M vision panel, overhead door closer, push plate and signage.
Cam-action easy-open closer on a cross-corridor door, Homelake House
FAQ

Common questions

Does every fire door need a self-closer?

Almost always, yes. A fire door has to close fully into its frame on its own to work. A door held open by anything other than a compliant alarm-linked device is not providing protection.

What hinges do fire doors need?

Fire-rated, CE/UKCA-marked hinges, usually three per leaf, sized for the door’s weight. Standard hinges, or too few, are a common inspection failure.

Why won’t my fire door close properly?

Usually a closer set to the wrong force, a dropped or worn hinge, a binding frame, or a latch that is not engaging. All are fixable, and an inspection pinpoints which.

GET A QUOTE

Need fire door closers or hardware put right?

Send us your inspection findings, or ask us to check first. Either way, we will quote clearly for the hardware and works, with no obligation.